IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 - Women - FINALS

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Komentarjev

  1. Cathy Ma

    Cathy MaPred 14 urami

    Great commentators! Despite all the hate the scoring system is getting, I agree with Charlie that perhaps now that most of the olympic places have been decided, some speed specialists may have the opportunity to switch up their training and place higher in lead and boulder. Even in just this last season of the combined finals, I think the speed climbers have been getting better in the other disciplines. And to be fair, some of the other climbers were also struggling on the boulders! I have great hope for an exciting olympic competition.

  2. MrsElectrobeat

    MrsElectrobeatPred dnevom

    why is that e.g. on W2 some are touching the starting boulder to have "both hands on the start" and some don't do it and it's still okay? so you don't have to have 2 hands on the start or how is it?

  3. sillumkune

    sillumkunePred 7 minutami

    There are four bits of tape denoting the starting holds. You have to get into a stable position where that many hands or feet are on those holds before continuing. The climber can choose how they distribute their hands and feet on the start holds as long as they equal the number of bits of tape.

  4. cgalaboom

    cgalaboomPred dnevom

    Anyone also think speed should absolutely not be combined with lead and boulder?

  5. Marcin L.

    Marcin L.Pred dnevom

    What a bullshit, this is ridiculous. I'm so happy that climbing is coming to the Olympics but this is just wrong way to do it. Disgrace.

  6. JustAintThatWay

    JustAintThatWayPred 2 dnevi

    No way thought Mia's first up Lead count would hold. Assumed after Boulders, her teammate almost assured the Oly bid. Rules is rules but Lucka bettering Mia in 2 of 3 disciplines ... I dunno. 20/20 hindsight but think adding scores & using time required for any tie breakers, much more fair than multiplying placing. To Lucka, just b/c you don't win doesn't mean you're not a champ. Wishing to you, better days but also, congrats to Mia.

  7. JustAintThatWay

    JustAintThatWayPred 2 dnevi

    And forgive my oversight, congratulation Futaba & all the women climbers, a great meet.

  8. Jacob Matthews

    Jacob MatthewsPred 2 dnevi

    Some thoughts after reading this comment section. Do I love this scoring system? No. But it has been in place, consistently, since the Olympic format was decided. It's what these climbers signed up for (by default, sure, but still), and it's what will be used in the Olympics. Mia got one more hold, a hold no one else could get, and she won because of it. Sure she obviously didn't plan it... Didn't throw the boulders to save strength for one more hold in lead. But it happened, and if it happened at the Olympics, it would win her and her country one more medal. So power to Mia.

  9. jperdomo1980

    jperdomo1980Pred 2 dnevi

    Hey Announcer, stop saying the math is complicated, it's simple multiplication ; )

  10. Yann Puzenat

    Yann PuzenatPred 3 dnevi

    KAPLINA being 5 and MORI 6..... i mean....WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOU!!??? at the federation!!

  11. Alexandre Billon

    Alexandre BillonPred 3 dnevi

    Juliaaaaaaaaaaa 😍

  12. Gonzalo Paredes

    Gonzalo ParedesPred 3 dnevi

    Maybe scores should be added and ties solved based on who surpassed the other in 2 of the disciplines? seems a little more telling of the most complete climber

  13. Ardita Ferrari

    Ardita FerrariPred 3 dnevi

    I can't believe these results! It's insulting for the athletes, for the climbing community and for the sport...

  14. Curtis W

    Curtis WPred 3 dnevi

    Hey IFSC, early 2000s called and want their music back

  15. Roberto Brevé

    Roberto BrevéPred 4 dnevi

    the Krampl and Lucka situation is so disappointing , luliaa kaplina was last on both bouldering and lead and managed to get to position 5, this point system is absurd and stupid. You're ruining the sport IFSC

  16. e p

    e pPred 4 dnevi

    2:05:27 dramatic camera movement to emphasize the situation

  17. Frost Nacht

    Frost NachtPred 4 dnevi

    2:24:54 I'm kinda stuck on Kyra's introduction, it's hilarious.

  18. Nicole Wu

    Nicole WuPred 4 dnevi

    he says purple but I see pink...

  19. cooper d

    cooper dPred 4 dnevi

    There should be a route that starts at the top and you climb down.

  20. cooper d

    cooper dPred 3 dnevi

    Ivana Petkovic not exactly where I was going with that but....

  21. Ivana Petkovic

    Ivana PetkovicPred 4 dnevi

    But you also have to be upside down...

  22. Tom Hey

    Tom HeyPred 4 dnevi

    2:01:00 Iuliia Kaplina in full "haha I have no idea what I'm doing" mode.

  23. jias333

    jias333Pred 4 dnevi

    I think the fact that Mia is booking her ticket to the olympics over Lucka says something about a flaw in this combined scoring system. Anyone can see Lucka overall climbed better and was in much better form than Mia. What a farce, especially because of a half move difference on lead completely invalidating the fact that Lucka destroyed Mia on the boulders. EDIT: Personal opinion: Average performance should be what wins someone the combined competition not a single strong performance weighing so heavily. Speed climbers who can barely start boulders and put just a few moves on a lead route should never have a chance at standing on the podium. Lucka: 6th, 3rd, 3rd should beat Mia: 7th, 7th, 1st!

  24. GusIsALegend

    GusIsALegendPred 4 dnevi

    First in speed, last in boulder, last in lead... This format is absolut nonsense tbh.

  25. jias333

    jias333Pred 4 dnevi

    I know first, last, last lands Julia 5th.... when she couldn't even start half the boulders, what a joke.

  26. Ivana Petkovic

    Ivana PetkovicPred 4 dnevi

    Disastrous lead setting, which led to a fluke deciding an Olympic ticket.

  27. BoyannaOnTheBike

    BoyannaOnTheBikePred 5 dnevi

    This was just awful - not the climbing these amazing young women did, but the emotional toll that all of these weird scoring and qualification rules took. Just look at the ceremony at the end, Futaba is crying, Mia is crying. Bless Mia, she got what she wanted so badly, but not the way she wanted it. It was obvious to everyone that Lucka was the better overall climber today. It feels unfair that so much depends on some weird combination of what other people do, or even what other people compete, and not what you, or the person you are competing against does. I can only imagine what this does to the psyche of these young women. I wish IFSC just invited athletes to Tokyo based on the combined rankings over the season, the combination of this wild scoring system and unclear qualification procedures is turning the whole thing very sour indeed.

  28. dannykumite

    dannykumitePred 2 dnevi

    While I dislike the format, especially watching speed climbers flailing on bouldering and lead, I thinks we'll get used to it just we get used to 6 minutes lead format, 4 minutes boulder format, and parkour setting. Climbing isnt one of those sport where you're too consumed with winning so much as enjoying the climbing. Let's hope Olympic won't destroy that.

  29. Rotomath

    RotomathPred 2 dnevi

    Agreed. Somehow I feel this kind of scoring reflects nothing of each of the athlete's performed climbing potential. Its just some obscure math game. Cannot be healthy for the sport. Crushing to see how that turned out. IFSC does need to come out with something better than this crap. It clearly doesn't work.

  30. Louis Félix La Roche-Morin

    Louis Félix La Roche-MorinPred 3 dnevi

    Very sour indeed...

  31. Chronic Wellness

    Chronic WellnessPred 3 dnevi

    Agreed.

  32. InsaneDesperado

    InsaneDesperadoPred 5 dnevi

    Well, as always the comments are people bitching about the format. Not the biggest fan myself, but it was either the combined or speed only. They only got one pair of medals to give out (one for each gender). Nobody thinks this is ideal, but it's what it has to be for lead and bouldering to be in the olympics at all. The scoring system isn't the best, but any scoring system would have had drawbacks for an event like this. IMO, it's overall been an extremely entertaining season, and I'm very happy to have watched all the events. Also want to remark that Charlie has done an exceptional job commentating this event and all the events this season. Commentating every 3-4 hour event, sometimes on his own is quite the impressive feat.

  33. Di 989

    Di 989Pred 3 dnevi

    If the points system is not perfect then reasult isn't correct , it means whole thing is fucked

  34. stephantom

    stephantomPred 4 dnevi

    Oh, I agree that it's been an entertaining season. And I understand why they're doing the combined format fo the Olympics, and that's fine. And I think Charlie is wonderful. But as someone who generally tries to refrain from bitching about it in the comments, the scoring system IS weird and it was clearer than usual in this event just how weird the results can be.

  35. Winged Zebra of Justice

    Winged Zebra of JusticePred 4 dnevi

    Hey dude, i agree 100% ... peace!

  36. Luis Ángel Rivera alba

    Luis Ángel Rivera albaPred 5 dnevi

    Me encantariiiiiiaaaaaa un Chingoooo participar En eseeeeee DEPORTE PERO DONDE VIVO NO EXISTE NADA DE ESO Y NO HAY NADIE QUE LO PRACTIQUE Y NO HAY NADA CERCA ME ENCANTARÍA DEMASIADO PARTICIPAR Y ENTRENAR SERIA UN LOGRO PARA MI 😣😢😭

  37. Leif Nyland

    Leif NylandPred 5 dnevi

    I'm sorry if I ruin your day if you read this comment, but I personally am very against the combined climbing competitions. Each style requires a completely different mental and physical skillset and I feel like it is a horrible way to determine the best climbers. I hope that climbers find a way to change climbing in the Olympics to what it should be

  38. Nicholas Gentry

    Nicholas GentryPred 2 dnevi

    If it makes you feel any better, the current system is only in place because the IOC forced the IFSC to combine all 3. The 2024 olympics will have speed as its own event and then bouldering and lead combined which makes far more sense to me

  39. A H

    A HPred 5 dnevi

    These two are the perfect commentating pair.

  40. Carol Haynes

    Carol HaynesPred 5 dnevi

    What an utterly ridiculous scoring system. A speed climber who came last in the boulder (barely got off the ground in two of the three) and practically landed on the belayer in lead comes 5th ahead of Ai Mori! The multiplication method is completely ludicrous and gives stupid outcomes. I have nothing against Julia Kaplina - she seems a very genuine and positive person - but placing her 5th is not fair to anyone. Genuine question - how many people see speed climbing as a real climbing activity? To me it seems like a valid sport but unrelated to bouldering or lead. To be an all round climber doesn't seem to need the speed bit. Bouldering and lead are about problem solving, reading routes, planning quickly and improvising in real time. Speed is just about practising the same sequence and doing it quickly - there is mo real thinking involved - or am I missing something?

  41. Carol Haynes

    Carol HaynesPred 13 urami

    @Fred Bomberman I don't think I am being rude. If there was only one boulder problem and only one lead and they are used in every competition and every climbing gym in the world I would say there are no real climbers competing. Speed climbing is a valid sport and I have no problem with it but no one expects the world 100m champion to have to compete in pole vaulting to get a valid medal.

  42. Fred Bomberman

    Fred BombermanPred 14 urami

    @Carol Haynes pls respect speed climbing. Don't say "real climbing" and exclude speed. It's just rude.

  43. Cathy Ma

    Cathy MaPred 14 urami

    To be honest I did feel this same way at the beginning of the season. However, I don't really think it's fair to say that she practically landed on the belayer (which we have seen plenty of lead specialists actually do over the years). Compared to the first combined competitions, the speed specialists have been slowly but surely improving in the lead and boulder. Like Charlie says, I think that if a few key speed climbers switched up their training routines they could have a real shot at at least placing middle of the board on the other disciplines. We have to remember that these people are still far, far stronger and more fit than most climbers, and the progress we've seen , I think, is positive.

  44. Carol Haynes

    Carol HaynesPred dnevom

    @Fred Bomberman the point I was making was that despite her smiles its pretty sad to see Julia (a speed climber) spend 12 minutes getting nowhere on boulders and then then near squash her belayer on the lead wall. By all means have speed climbing as a separate event but don't pretend to is anything to do with boulder and lead. Real climbers don't want to waste their time on speed. Notice in the men's competition Adam Ondra took one step on the speed wall to get a rank and then didn't take further part in the speed climbing because he was feeling unwell but he still came 2nd overall. My big objection to the multiplication of scores is that for some climbers they are relying on one other climber to do slightly worse than them or they can drop from 2nd to 7th or 8th ... and that makes no real sense.

  45. Fred Bomberman

    Fred BombermanPred dnevom

    @Kerryn Simmons u are just ignoring my comment, aren´t u?

  46. msdubs007

    msdubs007Pred 5 dnevi

    Another absolute disgrace from the IFSC and the route setters. My heart breaks for Lucka :-(. She was leagues ahead of Mia all weekend and 100% deserves the Olympic spot. Its a absolute tragedy. The look on her face whem the results came through. The whole system is whacked out and has destroyed my love of watching IFSC events. I can't imagine what Lucka is going through. Sooooo sad!

  47. Fred Bomberman

    Fred BombermanPred dnevom

    @msdubs007 ok go on, if u feel u need to. or be happy about your life and stop complaining cause i think the gave there best and they are good setters!

  48. msdubs007

    msdubs007Pred 4 dnevi

    @Fred Bomberman I understand the medal situation but the fact that Lucka climbed infinitely better than Mia all day and then lost the Olympic spot to one hold is crazy. Having the majority of women fall on the same move caused this travesty heance its on the route setters. Poor route setting time and time again poor communication on the part of the IFSC with the second event. I could go on...

  49. Fred Bomberman

    Fred BombermanPred 4 dnevi

    It is a shame that u blame ifsc! It is the best possible way for them to deal with this one medalset given!

  50. jias333

    jias333Pred 4 dnevi

    Couldn't agree more!!

  51. SonofPog

    SonofPogPred 5 dnevi

    Gutted for Lucka; so sad at the end there. Showing the limits of the Multiplication system, as fun as its been watching combined, its also dangerous (see the low falls of speed climbers on lead walls that are too hard for them) and wildly swingy. I'll be glad when speed is its own discipline again for Paris. Final thought, why can't the national team decide which members of their team they take like in other sports? What if Mia or say one of the Japanese athletes gets injured in the next few months? Surely, the national team should be able to take whichever two that has met the qualification criteria that they want. Anyhoo. Strangely anticlimactic but also sadly gripping ending to this one.

  52. msdubs007

    msdubs007Pred 5 dnevi

    Thats actually how its supposed to work. When a slot for the Olympics is secured its for that nation not the individual. Then the team chooses who they want to take but I think the idiots at the IFSC stepped in and wanted better ratings and changed that. The IFSC is a joke run by billy goats and warlocks.

  53. Drew Harris

    Drew HarrisPred 5 dnevi

    "It feels like these speed competitions go by so fast." Duh.

  54. Anna

    AnnaPred 5 dnevi

    Speed, Bouldering and Lead timestamps below. Proceed with caution to avoid spoilers, especially because timestamps differences can give off spoilers. Enjoy! Speed 21:12 Bouldering 1:05:46 Lead 3:00:15 Combined Results 3:41:37 *spoilers* SPEED 21:12 Kaplina vs Mori 22:37 Chanourdie vs Rakovec 24:11 Condie vs Krampl 25:43 Ito vs Rogora 30:39 Semi 1 32:14 Semi 2 33:40 Semi 3 35:13 Semi 4 38:44 Semi 5 40:08 Semi 6 41:42 Fight for third 43:12 Finals BOULDERING 51:25 Observation Chanourdie 1:21:12 - 1:54:50 - 2:20:46 Condie 1:25:45 - 1:56:31 - 2:25:03 Ito 1:18:56 - 1:51:55 - 2:17:55 Kaplina 1:30:12 - 2:00:37 - 2:28:35 Krampl 1:07:50 - 1:40:12 - 2:07:56 Mori 1:05:47 - 1:37:19 - 2:06:15 Rakovec 1:12:26 - 1:44:40 - 2:12:21 Rogora 1:15:52 - 1:46:40 - 2:14:20 LEAD Observation 2:45:40 Chanourdie 3:24:56 Condie 3:29:25 Ito 3:36:55 Kaplina 3:33:58 Krampl 3:00:15 Mori 3:16:55 Rakovec 3:11:22 Rogora 3:05:25

  55. FiLo C

    FiLo CPred 5 dnevi

    I'm very happy that climbing is going to be an Olympic sport but the overall system of speed, bulder and lead and the final count of the points are pretty strange

  56. Fred Bomberman

    Fred BombermanPred 4 dnevi

    No, not the system, the decision to give climbing just one medalset.

  57. dee5u

    dee5uPred 5 dnevi

    wow Lucka deserved it :(

  58. Mayasounds

    MayasoundsPred 5 dnevi

    Awful one-move-drop routesetting on the lead wall, yet again. Hard to understand how they can get it so wrong on the regular. In this case, I suspect it's because the setters know where that handhold is but the climbers can't actually see it, and the setters know that foothold is terrible but the climbers don't.

  59. Fred Bomberman

    Fred BombermanPred dnevom

    @Mayasounds i dont think, that u are in the position to judge about it, if u have never set a route by yourself. Just put adam ondra on that move and i am sure he will make it. It is no impossible move. And so it is in the hands of professional setters to decide how hard it is.

  60. Mayasounds

    MayasoundsPred 4 dnevi

    @Fred Bomberman unlike the IFSC setters, this is not my job. They're supposed to be good at this, but in reality they're very hit and miss, which makes it difficult to sell lead climbing as an Olympic sport due to the major chance of a dud final like this. And Mia slips on the same foothold as everyone else, she just has her hand higher. That's what, six climbers slipping on the same foothold? That's not normal. Then the earlier fiasco with the volume coming off in the men's quali's and them just putting it back on like nothing happened - that's just not great for the image of the sport to an outside eye. I know it's a hard job but it's important that it's done well.

  61. Fred Bomberman

    Fred BombermanPred 4 dnevi

    I would really like to see the routes u are setting. They have such a hard job to do. And like u see at mia, wich definitly isn't far better at lead than the rest here, u can easily do that move.

  62. Ivana Petkovic

    Ivana PetkovicPred 4 dnevi

    Maybe it's cause they keep getting the same guy :(

  63. Eric Connor

    Eric ConnorPred 5 dnevi

    damn laura ragora on w3 boulder

  64. Leonardo Fibonacci

    Leonardo FibonacciPred 5 dnevi

    boulder observation : 51:28 boulder 1 : 1:06:04 boulder 2 : 1:37:19 boulder 3 : 2:06:19 lead observation : 2:45:42 lead start : 3:00:30

  65. dampwool2000

    dampwool2000Pred 5 dnevi

    Leonardo Fibonacci you superstar

  66. pbandjosh

    pbandjoshPred 5 dnevi

    That lead route was a travesty. Nice looking, nice moves, but with most of the field falling on the same move, shame on the setters. I really wonder if they have strong women to fore-run the lead routes sometimes.

  67. Jagknorr

    JagknorrPred 3 dnevi

    Constance Elaine thats whats so tough. You give the smallies an extra rock to step up on and the tall folk will probably “abuse” it eliminating the challenge. Really they would just be using it normally but it STILL would create a different climb for the 2 sized people. We need a wall that can pop in/out a rock thats one notch above another on crux moves with the press of a button. Youre below this height? Then you get the higher rock. ;D

  68. Constance Elaine

    Constance ElainePred 4 dnevi

    @Jagknorr it's their job to figure these things out. Perhaps the setters underestimated the energy loss over the course of the entire competition. Also once again the smallest climbers had it very tough on the crux moves.

  69. Jagknorr

    JagknorrPred 5 dnevi

    Yeah id rather see people drop off because of endurance and pump. Not so much everyone falling on the same half dyno to a crimp move : / But you usually got those 1 or 2 people that can make it through...just not so much this time. Its gotta be rough to set for that fine line of difficulty with every competitor being so different in size and ability.

  70. SnowmansApartment

    SnowmansApartmentPred 5 dnevi

    sad about the lead wall honestly

  71. Peter Hammer

    Peter HammerPred 5 dnevi

    Well Lucka Rakovec surely would have deserved the place in the Olympics. She was ahead on speed, climbed all 3 boulders (Mia Krampl climbed zero) and got to the same hold in lead as Mia Krampl. Only because Julia Charnourdies time was in between those two, the result stands as it is. Not really fair I would say.

  72. Joey Tirado- Grundvig

    Joey Tirado- GrundvigPred 4 dnevi

    Yeah as David said, the system is built so that those individuals that get a 1 get a massive advantage (as they should). The multiplication is VERY intentional. If you do addition, it doesn't allow people who truly excel in one of the 3 disciplines to shine as brightly. Listen to interviews about this and it makes perfect sense. It's truly a bummer that Lucka didn't end up getting in the Olympics, but the crux move of the lead route was was only stuck by one person, where that one person was Mia.

  73. Constance Elaine

    Constance ElainePred 4 dnevi

    It really really sucks

  74. Fred Bomberman

    Fred BombermanPred 4 dnevi

    Think more about your comments srsly

  75. jias333

    jias333Pred 4 dnevi

    @Jay Dee Ya seems they were basically there to act as blockers and screw up peoples shot at the olympics. This whole qualification thing is a fiasco.

  76. Tom Hodges

    Tom HodgesPred 5 dnevi

    @Olivier HUET good - unless they can boulder and lead... the format is about being an allrounder

  77. 4L

    4LPred 5 dnevi

    Charlie Boscoe needs to be replaced by someone who actually climbs and can talk about the actually climbing and not just scoring and time. Thank goodness for Shauna and her great insight.

  78. sillumkune

    sillumkunePred minuto

    I like Charlie. He makes it much more accessible for non climbers.

  79. Yann Puzenat

    Yann PuzenatPred 3 dnevi

    have your heared the guys before him?? lol So no...i don't want to go back tho that time when we had to mute the sound! lol

  80. Ivana Petkovic

    Ivana PetkovicPred 4 dnevi

    @Travis Simon Oh it's hard, is it? There are other people who are doing it better. Guest commentators are doing it better. You don't need to repeat one thing fifty times no matter what. It's patronizing to the viewer. Charlie's commentary is basically picking five sentences (like the Mia/Lucka spot or Japanese not qualifying) and then repeating them over and over, and in between time he's telling you whatever you can see for yourself ("she has a left foot on the hold, now she's going up with her right hand" etc). Very rarely does he give accurate insight into technique, quite often humorously the guest commentator has to correct him if he tries.

  81. Travis Simon

    Travis SimonPred 4 dnevi

    @Ivana Petkovic While I take your point, you have to remember that he has to talk about this competition for about 3 hours in total, and that is the most interesting story line. Try muting the sound to the competition and commentate the event. It's a lot harder than you might think.

  82. Ivana Petkovic

    Ivana PetkovicPred 4 dnevi

    It would be interesting to merely _count_ how many times during this broadcast Charlie has pointed out that Lucka and Mia are up for the same spot. My guess is over fifty times.